Theyskens' Theory: Risque and Roll

The panache and demi-monde of Paris, the energy and drive of New York, the latest collection of Theyskens' Theory was the perfect balance of both in a risque fashion moment.

Part classy display of subtle avant-garde tailoring, part innovative demonstration of off beat fabrics; the show felt like it was taking place in a warehouse on the Seine rather than the bowels of a giant post office opposite Penn Station in Manhattan.

In a telling lesson in the art of less is more, Olivier Theyskens opened with a lovingly cut opening four looks - ranging from a slim-line pant suits to an evilly chic redingote-dress. Made in an intriguing anthracite hue and finishing with tiny see-through triangles, they all imparted self-assurance and hauteur.

His choice materials was retro futurist - shiny space age finished that looked ever so lived in -used in inspiring tunic dresses and sleek cocktails. Adding to the suggestive air, the designer had his hair and make up team - Odile Gilbert and James Kaliardos - create a great new look: shaggy short bobs in rusts, purples and bleached silvers; icy makeup the better to give the models a cocky distain.

"I was dreaming of the seas, which is why there was the deep blue of the ocean depths and the shining transparency of jelly fishes," Theyskens told FWD post show.

This spring 2013 collection, presented Monday, Sept. 10, managed to be both high class yet downtown, testifying to the change in Theyksens' style since coming to live in Manhattan. Gone were his early Goth romanticism designs and in came a punchier chic - a tougher new woman on the prowl, a rockin' downtown dame.