Vera Wang: Rajasthan Red Carpet

From courtly to courtesan, the latest collection from Vera Wang had a racy yet noble sensibility, a curvy and lacy ensemble that wandered back and forth from the salons of Louis XIV to the palaces of Rajasthan.

"I wanted that sense of history, use of color and romance that is India. But a modern mood and view of India," Wang told FWD in the backstage.

Wang's ode to the sub-continent opened strongly - 10 all white combinations of her signature pieces - eyelet tanks, sleeveless cutaway jackets and tulip skirts - though finely embroidered and made often in a guipure so structured it looked like Georgian plasterwork.

Though classy, the clothes were also saucy - off the shoulder cocktails that finished way up the thigh or tight jacquard, bum snuggling Bermudas. Yet her delicate use of amazing Indian embroidery, like golden-jeweled waists or silvered finger gloves all worthy of an Udaipur harem, gave the collection a beguiling delicacy.

"I like a tom boy and a sensual girl. It's always that mix that I want. It's not that easy. I don't always succeed, but I try," smiled Wang.

Her golden lace, brocade and hammered bullion finale had all the opulence one would expect of a tour through India, though one where prudish morals were very decidedly banished.

That said, the sheer opulence of the clothes looked completely out of place with the chilly flat gray bleachers and runway in Lincoln Center where this show spring 2013 collection was presented on Tuesday, Sept. 11. And quite why Wang insists her models wear such inordinately high platforms is at times baffling. Though they may flatter a woman of traditional height like the designer herself, they tend to make the models totter, losing that vital soupcon of poise.

However, though not quite a flawless display, one could only leave charmed by this moment of gilded contemporary chic, which is what this show was.