Ralph Talks Tough On French Fashion

BEING effectively placed in charge of French fashion, as Ralph Toledano was last week, presents an immense challenge - but the former Chloé CEO isn't shirking. First stop: take on London.

The new president of the Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode acknowledges that the changing of the guard at the helm of each of fashion's key cities - Italian Camera Nazionale della Moda appointing Jane Reeve as its CEO, and Net-a-porter founder Natalie Massenet becoming chairman of the BFC - provides yet more incentive to elevate the profile of Paris.

"I think competition is excellent," he told WWD. "It gives us more reason to be very demanding on ourselves."

Joined on the committee by fellow executives - including Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel; Sidney Toledano, CEO of Dior (who is no relation, but was coincidentally a classmate of Ralph's), Hermès veteran Stéphane Wargnier and Guillaume de Seynes, managing director at Hermès - Toledano is keen to note that: "I love it because it's not a one-man show."

Asserting that he hopes that the Federation will be able to help the city's foremost fashion college - the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne - become a real challenger to London's Central Saint Martins, Toledano also acknowledges that Parisian designers bear some responsibility for making Paris Fashion Week even better, adding that those who don't make the grade may lose their schedule slot.

"The idea is not to make it longer; the idea is to make it stronger. Each show must deserve to be on the calendar," he said, adding: "Fashion is not a job for me. It's really something I love."