PERU'S *CLIMATE CHANGE* PAINS

Viru-Peru : An icecap vanishes in Peru, and fertile desert farms below may soon do the same.

The desert blooms now. Blueberries grow to the size of Ping-Pong balls in nothing but sand. Asparagus fields cross dunes, disappearing over the horizon.

The desert produce is packed and shipped to places like Denmark and Delaware. Electricity and water have come to villages that long had neither.

 Farmers have moved here from the mountains, seeking new futures on all the irrigated land.

It might sound like a perfect development plan, except for one catch :

The reason so much of water flows through this desert is that icecap high up in the mountains is melting away. And this bonanza may not last much longer.

''If the water disappears, we'd have to go back how it was before,'' said Miguel Beltran, a 62 year old farmer who worries what will happen when water levels fall. ''The land was empty and people went hungry.''

In this part of Peru, climate change has been a blessing  -but it may become a curse.

In recent decades, accelerating glacial melt in the Andes has enabled a gold rush downstream, contributing to the  irrigation and cultivation of more than 100,000 acres of land since 1980s

Yet the boon is temporary. The flow of water is already declining as the glacier vanishes, and scientists estimate that by 2050 much of the icecap will be gone.

Throughout the 20th century, enormous government development projects, from Australia to Africa, have diverted water to arid land.

Much of Southern California was dry scrubland until canals brought water, inciting a storm of land speculation and growth  -a time known as the ''Water Wars'' depicted in the  1974 film  ''Chinatown''

Yet climate change now threatens some of these ambitious undertakings, reducing lakes, diminishing aquifiers and shrinking glaciers that feed crops.

Here in Peru, the government irrigated the desert and turned it into farmland through an $825 million project that, in a few decades, could be under serious threat.

''We're talking about the disappearance of frozen water towers that have supported 'vast populations,'' said Jeffrey Bury, a professor at the university of California at Santa Cruz who has spent years studying-

The effects of glacier melt on Peruvian agriculture. ''That is the big picture question related to climate change right now.''

A changing climate has long haunted Peru.